Town & Country Backyard to Barnyard

Controlling Fleas on Dogs and Cats

2010-07-12T20:22:00.000-07:00

In order to control fleas on your pets you must first understand their lifecycle. Fleas need a blood meal to survive. Their favorite hosts are warm-blooded mammals like dogs and cats. If people are being bit in your home that means there is a very high population of fleas. Fleas thrive in indoor climates but actually prefer your pets as hosts.

The presence of adult fleas is just the tip of the iceberg. There are many more eggs, larvae, and pupae than adults. Treating just the adults or the host animals will not solve the problem. The trick is to treat all the stages of the life cycle on your pet and its surrounding environment.

Treating for fleas
Never treat your cat with a product label for dogs or vice versa. The best treatments are long lasting ones that target both the young and adult fleas.
1. If your pet is infected make it more comfortable by bathing it with a flea shampoo or dip which will temporarily remove the pest. With cats who may not like baths try a flea comb to remove them.
2. Use a long term treatment such as Bio-Spot, Freedom or Liberty products to protect your pet from re-infestation.
3. Treat your house use foggers or carpet sprays. Be sure to follow the directions and cover any food or areas that you eat off of. Be sure to pay special attention to the areas your pet sleeps or frequents.
4. Last but certainly not least treat the outdoor areas your pets have access to. Pay special attention to shady areas that your dog or cat use to get out of the sun and areas with a lot of organic material such as compost sites or leaf piles. Use an outdoor spray on these areas.

Controlling Japanese Beetles

2010-05-21T06:55:00.000-07:00

Japanese beetles are a very destructive pest in both the adult and larvae stages. The larvae, called white grubs, feed on plant roots and organic matter in the soil resulting in dead patches of turf that can be picked up like carpet. The adults, a brilliant metallic green beetle, eat the leaves and flowers of of over 300 plants.

The adult Japanese beetles normally emerge from the soil during the last week of June through July and immediately begin feeding on host plants. After feeding and mating for a day or two the females burrow into the soil to lay eggs 2-4 inches below ground level. They repeat this process for about a month laying a total of 40 – 60 eggs. The eggs hatch in 8 – 14 days and the larvae begin to feed on roots. They dig deeper into the soil in late fall to over-winter and return to the surface in the spring.

Beetles can be controlled by several methods depending on their life stage.

Adult Control
Traps and insecticides are the most popular controls used adult beetles. Traps need to be kept away from plants that attract beetles or the feeding damage can be increased. Also, attracting the beetles may result in larger grub populations not reduced. Several over-the-counter sprays are available for adult control including Sevin and pyrethroids. During heavy adult activity sprays may need to be applied every 5 -10 days.

Grub Control
Biological controls include bacterial milky disease and entomopathogenic nemotodes. Both these controls have only been proven to be marginally effective. They require time to build up in the soil and insecticides against the grubs should not be used during this period.

The grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. Several insecticides have proven to be effective including Dylox, Sevin, Merit and Mach2.

Taking a Good Soil Sample

2010-04-28T12:33:00.000-07:00

Beneficial results of a soil test depend on a good sample. A soil sample must be taken at the right time and in the right way. The tools used, the area sampled, the depth and the correct mix of the sample all influence quality of the sample.

The Timing
Ideally the soil should be tested a few months before planting. This allows time for lime applications (if recommended) to adjust the pH of the soil before you plant. You can test with less time before planting but it will be difficult to correct ph issues ahead of time.

The Right Way

Use a clean probe or spade to take the sample.

If a spade or shovel is used, dig a V-shaped hole to the sample depth (4-6”), then cut a thin slice at the sample depth.

Each sample should represent only one type of soil or area- for example, a lawn, vegetable garden or landscaped area. If soil varies in these areas take separate samples for each soil type. For each unique area take at least 6-8 subsamples.

Mix soil subsamples from each unique area in a clean bucket. Do not use a bucket that has held fertilizers or chemicals. Be sure to mix thoroughly.

Allow samples to dry before transporting them to testing site.

Be sure to attach a note to each sample that contains your contact information including name, address, phone number and an email address. Also label the type of sample (lawn, vegetable garden, landscape area, etc...)

Help Out Nesting Birds

2010-04-24T06:55:00.000-07:00

This time of year, birds are putting together nests for their eggs. You can help them out by providing the following items.

Nesting Materials
Find a mesh bag (onion bag) or empty suet feeder and fill it with a mixture of the following:
· short pieces of yarn, string and/or fabric
· human hair
· pet hair
· feathers
· twigs
· dried grass
· dried leaves
These items can all be used by birds to build their nests and make them soft and warm for their eggs. Mount your bag or feeder on a post or in a tree where birds can easily get to the nesting materials. DO NOT use fishing line, dryer lint or dryer sheets. These can be harmful to the birds and the eggs.

Food & Water
Keep your egg shells and help the female birds replace calcium lost from producing eggs. Clean your egg shells and dry them in the oven at 250 degrees for 10-30 minutes. When the shells have cooled crush them into small pieces and put them in an open spot on the ground or in a dish by your bird feeder(s). You can also mix them into your bird feed.

Provide CLEAN, shallow water for drinking and bathing. If possible, provide this year round, if not, especially make water available on hot days. Keep your feeders full and feed high protein foods such as peanuts, suets and mealworms.

If you come across a birds nest stay away from it, don’t linger and don’t return to it. We leave a scent that could attract predators and endanger the nest.

Providing these items will attract birds to your backyard for your pleasure and help them out during this busy time. Have fun watching the birds nest and the young learn about their new world.

Getting Started with Chicks and Ducklings

2010-03-24T12:40:00.000-07:00

Baby chicks and ducklings are a sure sign of spring. However, if you plan on raising any specie of poultry, there are some very basic things to keep in mind.

Heat and Space for Chicks- One of the best ways to determine whether or not it is too hot or too cold for the chicks, is to observe the way they are behaving. If they are in a pile or bunch huddling under a heat lamp, it is probably too cold. You can lower the heat lamp to warm the area up. If they are hanging out as far as they can from the heat source, it is probably too hot and you can set the lamp up further away. If your brooder is set up in a way that you could hang your heat lamp from the ceiling or top a lamp that hangs would be best. If you have the birds in a brooder that doesn’t allow for anything to hang above you would be better with a lamp that can clamp onto something stable nearby.

Bulb for the Lamp- Most people use a 250 watt bulb. Some use a white bulb, some use a red bulb. Since chickens, quail and pheasants have cannibalistic tendencies, the red is said to deter them from pecking at each other. Ducks do not have these tendencies so using a white bulb for them would be fine. If you begin to have a problem with “pecking” you can purchase some anti-pick.

Feed and Water should be of free choice when they are young. We recommend for chicks using a starter feed medicated with amprolium, which helps develop an active immunity to coccidiosis. Keep in mind that you cannot feed this to ducklings, so feed them an unmedicated version (recommended for ducks and geese). For mixed flocks, the unmedicated version works best.

Size and Quantities of the Feeders and Waterers you choose will depend on the size of your flock. For most, starting with one or two 1 qt feeder base and the jar is sufficient. These setups allow for constant feed supply. Another way is using a feeder that isn’t self dispensing such as a 20in plastic feeder. Again for starting out, most flocks can thrive on one or two quart size or gallon size waterers. For smaller birds such as quail we recommend a quail base to the same jar. As the flock grows, larger feeders and waterers should be provided. Again it is important to keep fresh feed and water available at all times.

No matter what kind birds or what you plan to do with them when they become adults, a good start with proper housing and feeding can ensure you a happy, healthy, stress-free flock!

What kind of ice melt should I get?

2010-01-19T12:51:00.000-08:00

When it comes to melting snow and ice, people have different needs.

Some just want the most inexpensive way to melt, which is plain sodium chloride, also known as rock salt or halite. This product is usually available as a 25 pound or 50 pound bag.

Others are concerned about melting the snow/ice quickly and keeping it from refreezing or melting in extreme temperatures. For these needs, we recommend calcium chloride. It comes in the form of pellets or flakes. QuikJoe is a calcium chloride product in the pellet form. Calcium Chloride melts at extreme temperatures, all the way down to -25 degrees F. It does not leave a powdery residue and has a lower application rate than other de-icers. Calcium Chloride also does not chemically harm concrete.

Another need is for a safe product to use around pets, children and vegetation. A magnesium chloride product is usually recommended to those with this type of need. It is safe for pets to walk on and will not harm their paws. It is also safe for people to touch during application. Due to magnesium having one-third fewer chlorides that calcium the chances of damaging plants by leaf burn or root toxicity are greatly reduced. Magnesium is also safe for concrete and will melt ice down to -25 degrees F.

There are many products that are available that mix these de-icing chemicals to provide a product that has a mix of these benefits. For example, Polar Express Ice Melt is 80% Sodium Chloride, 15% Calcium Chloride, and 5% Potassium Chloride. This results in a low cost ice melter that is safer on concrete than 100% Sodium and will melt down to a lower temperature than 100% Sodium Chloride.

Winter Horse Care

2009-12-23T12:27:00.000-08:00

When it starts getting cold outside a horse’s body starts to make changes to adapt with the temperature. Probably the most noticeable change from our eyes is their hair coat. If a horse’s coat is allowed to grow, it can give them just as much protection from the cold as a blanket. Unless you are showing regularly through the winter months you should never clip any part of your horse during this time. When a horse feels colder weather coming on its hair reacts and tends to stand up to retain heat. If you are showing during the winter and your horse is body clipped a blanket may be necessary. Be sure that your horse is dry before you put a blanket on. Trapping moisture under a blanket for an extended period of time may cause skin problems on a horse. Use good common sense when blanketing. If it’s cold and snowy and windy, put a blanket on. If it’s cold but sunny take the blanket off.

One thing you can do during the winter to keep your horse a little warmer is give it a little extra hay. On those bitter cold nights a little extra hay can go a long way. During digestion a horse’s body produces heat. Digesting hay produces a lot more heat than digesting grain. This is why you should never give your horse extra grain during the winter to try to keep it warm. This increase consumption of hay you would think would make your horse want to drink more. However, in the winter months a horse actually decreases water consumption. This makes it especially important that you make sure it always has access to clean, fresh water. Frozen water buckets are not pleasant to anyone but there are a couple things you could do to make it easier. Rubber buckets are a blessing in the winter since you can hit them a little harder to break the ice versus plastic buckets. If your barn is wired for electric good enough, heated water buckets are also available. These can also be dangerous if the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed. It’s also a great idea to put heat tape around exposed hydrants in your barn. They can prevent water pipes from freezing and keep your plumbing bills down!

If your horse is outside during the winter and in the snow you will want to make sure ice is not being packed and making it hard for them to walk. Horses can slip much easier if ice is packed in their hooves. Be sure to keep up on getting your horses hooves trimmed during the winter. If hooves are not maintained during the winter you risk problems in the spring and it may prolong the time you wait until you can ride again.

Every horse owner knows that horse care during the winter is a lot more difficult than in the summer months. Frozen water, frigid temperatures, high winds and snow can make it miserable but your horse’s health will be better if it has the proper care and your wallet will be bigger not paying those expensive vet bills if something bad would happen.

Oh, Christmas Tree!

2009-11-30T12:55:00.000-08:00

Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree.

One of our favorite holiday traditions is going out as a family and picking just the right Christmas tree at a local Christmas tree farm and cutting it ourselves. However, over the past few years, we have discovered some tips to help our Christmas tree last through the holiday season. One thing that really helps is to spray the tree with an anti-wilt product. This minimizes needle loss and helps the tree maintain valuable moisture that it will lose being in a climate controlled home. We also put our tree up in a cooler part of the house, in front of a window and away from heating ducts. This also helps the tree retain moisture. One year we chose to get the tree with the bulb so that we could plant it in the yard after the holidays. When we did this we got a large galvanized tub to house the bulb of the tree. Depending on the bulb size and shape, it is not always easy to get the tree positioned just right. You can stabilize the tree in the center of the tub using rocks or bricks. Keep the bulb watered as often as necessary to moisten the roots but be sure to not make it soggy. It is also important to NOT apply any nutrients or fertilizer to the bulb while you have it in the house. This may initiate growth, which you do not want to occur in the dormant tree. However, once the tree is planted outside, you can use evergreen green fertilizer spikes to ensure that your holiday tree has the nutrients it need for many more Christmases to come!

Look out for the Lady Beetles!

2009-10-27T13:17:00.000-07:00

When I got home the other day, my front porch was overrun with ladybugs (multi-colored Asian lady beetles). I went to my mother’s house to pick up my children and her house was overrun with the pesky little beetles as well. I wondered what caused such a sudden outburst of ladybugs and my mom said that it was because the farmers in the area were cutting soybeans. When I asked her why that had anything to do with the beetles, she wasn’t sure of the answer. She just heard that when farmers cut soybeans, it disturbs the ladybugs. However, it did seem weird to me that there was a huge correlation that the farmers in the area were cutting soybeans and suddenly there are tons of ladybugs.

I decided to do some brief research and ask a few different people and I found out that ladybugs control the aphids on soybeans. Now it all made sense! When the farmers cut the soybeans it obviously disturbs the ladybugs and that is why they are all over my front porch.

The ladybug in not a native to North America and was originally brought over from Australia to control aphids on orange trees and other crops. The ladybug has no natural predator in the United States and that is why there are so many of them. They also have some sort of mechanism in their bodies that keep them from freezing. I was told that if you put a ladybug in water completely submerged, froze it, and then let it de-thaw naturally, the little beetle would de thaw and crawl away. I may have to try this.

For more information on the Multi-colored Asian Lady Beetles, click here.

Autumn and Wild Birds

2009-10-13T12:06:00.000-07:00

Now is the time to get your yard and yourself ready for the wild birds this winter.
Cleaning. First, clean out your nesting boxes and put a little grass or nesting material such as nesting hair in it for the birds to cuddle up in. Then check yourfeeders and bird baths. Make sure they are clean and ready to be used for another season. If you had a garden or flower beds this summer, here is a cheap way to feed some birds. Just leave the plants in your garden and beds until spring, the wild birds will enjoy feeding on the left over vegetables and seed heads.
Start offering feed to the birds now. They will be scouting out places where food will be available when the cold weather hits. If you’re not offering water and seed now you may not see any wild birds this winter. Birds will scout this fall and remember the places that had seed and water available and return to those places when their natural food supply is scarce. If you wait until winter to supply seed and water the birds may not realize your yard has anything to offer. When the cold weather hits the birds will tend to stay in the areas where they know that food is available.
Don’t forget the water. It can be hard for birds to find fresh unfrozen water, so also provide water near your feeders. You may need a heated bird bath if you live in an area when the temperature is often below freezing. Make sure to keep your water clean.
Start feeding now so you can enjoy the birds all winter long.

2009-08-14T12:40:00.000-07:00

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Watering Tips for your Garden & Flowers

2009-06-30T12:40:00.000-07:00

With summer coming for most of us, watering may be a chore we think we need to do more often. Although this may seem logical, we should actually water less frequently (weekly), but water deeply. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root development and can be wasteful, whereas weekly deeper watering encourages deep root growth for stronger and healthier plants.

It’s best to water your plants/garden early in the morning before it gets hot out. This will help prepare plants for the heat of the day. If you can’t water in the morning, choose the late afternoon or early evening, just make sure your plant leaves will have time to dry before nightfall. Moist leaves can cause fungal diseases. Therefore if you can water your plants without getting the leaves wet, late evening waterings are fine. Soaker hoses can help avoid moist leaves and also allow for deep, gentle watering. Since soaker hoses water slowly make sure you leave them on long enough; dig a small hole to see how deep the water has gone, if it’s not at least 6” run your hose a little longer.

Sprinklers can be a good watering source, but be aware that a lot of water is lost through evaporation and that your sprinkler will need to be moved frequently since they do not water evenly. Make sure you have a long enough garden hose to reach all the areas of your yard, garden and/or flower beds.

Watering cans and water wands can easily provide water to specific areas and plants. With a gentle rain like output potted plants, flowers are gardens can each individually be watered to their specific needs. These methods can also be held close to the ground to avoid getting the leaves wet.

Finally, if you don’t have the time to go out and water your plants you can get a timer for your sprinkler or soaker hose. These can be simple; water every day at the specific time you select, or they can be high tech and test the moisture to decide whether to water or not.

There are many watering methods to choose from, find the one that is best for you and your plants.

Weed Control for Your Gardens & Landscape

2009-06-12T12:44:00.001-07:00

There are few things more satisfying than watching your carefully planted seeds germinate into colorful flowers or tasty vegetables. Unfortunately, germinating right next to your seedlings are the dreaded weeds. Taking over your garden and turning your winter garden dreams into summer weed-pulling nightmares.
There are basically three ways of controlling weeds; weed mats, organic controls or pre and post emergent herbicides.

Weed mats or weed barriers are easy to install and last for years. Simply prepare the ground for planting, unroll the fabric, cut out x’s as needed for new plants and cover with 2-3” of mulch. They are designed to let water and nutrients through to the roots but stop weeds from establishing. Weed mats are an excellent way to control unwanted growth in permanent landscape areas or under walkways and decks.

Natural and Organic controls are spray or dry spreadable products that are made of ingredients which are generally considered good for the environment and safe for use around children and pets. They still must be used as labeled to be safe and ensure proper weed control. Some of these products such as Weed Prevention Plus and Safe N Simple are weed control and fertilizer in one

Herbicides can be applied as pre-emergent’s (forming a barrier on the soil that doesn’t allow seeds to germinate) or post-emergent’s which are used to kill existing weeds. Both are very effective when used according to directions. Timing is critical when using pre-emergent herbicides once the weeds start to grow you must switch to a post-emergent. The herbicides are available in concentrates, ready-to-use and granular formations.

No matter what weed control you decide to use make sure you have a plan. If you stay ahead of the problem you can enjoy your gardens and not have to spend another summer constantly pulling weeds.

Protecting Your Berries & Fruits

2009-05-08T11:37:00.000-07:00

You planted your fruit trees, berry bushes and strawberries, lovingly cared for them with water and fertilizer, in some cases for several years, and pruned them just so. The time has finally come to reap the rewards. You head outside to taste the first fruits of the season but instead you find either half eaten produce or nothing at all. What do you do?
Well after you’ve finished cursing Mother Nature and yelling at the dog just because he’s there it’s time to take action.
There are several ways of combating the deer, birds, and rodents that seem to wait until just before you’re ready to pick your fruit to help themselves. We’ll stick with non-lethal ways in this article although if you’ve been in the position I described above you may have been willing to use napalm.
Netting is the most effective way to keep birds off your berry plants and cherry trees. They come in various sizes and shapes for covering large areas, trees or rows. Just place them over the area you need protected as the fruit starts to appear. They do not interfere with sunlight, water or sprays.
You can use fencing, deer fortress or an electronic deer repellent to keep deer and other animals out of the area but be sure they completely surround the plants you want to protect. Also for deer and smaller rodents such as mice, rabbits and squirrels there are various products to repel animals such as deer off, deer/rabbit repellent, defence and repels-all.
No matter what you use be sure to start early enough in the season and follow the label directions so that it’s you and not the local four legged or winged freeloaders that enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Click here to view all our pest control & repellent products.

Family time & the Birds

2009-04-30T12:27:00.000-07:00

Today my son and I decided we were going to make some bird feeds. So we went outside on the search for pine cones*. We found a couple, but they were a little soft, so we gathered what we could and went in to start the project. (If it wasn't raining it would have been a good idea to do this outside, my son is almost 2). I got out the peanut butter and put the seed (I'd suggest Sommer's Wild Bird Foods seed) in a bowl for him to cover the cones. Away he went, playing in the seeds and dropping quite a bit on the floor in the process. Anyways, hung them up and now we wait to see if we have any takers. We had a great time together and gave the birds a little treat in the process. Do you have a suggestion for some family time together? Let me know.

*If you can't find any pine cones, just use slices of bread. Leave them sit out for a couple hours so they get a little hard, punch a hole in them for some string, then slather on the peanut butter and sprinkle with your favorite seed.

Bringing Birds to Your Backyard

2009-04-18T19:59:00.000-07:00

Bringing birds to your backyard can be easy and fun. Below are 4 tips to keep in mind as you get ready for your feathered friends this spring.
1. Feed Them Well-The more diverse your food selection is the larger variety of birds you will attract to your yard. Provide plants with seeds, nectar &/or berries and dead tree limbs will attract insects for insect-eating birds. Also provide a variety of bird feeders at different heights as well as suets and other high energy foods. Keep your feeders full and clean. See our Bird Food & Feeder Preference Chart.
2. Provide Safe and Warm Shelter-Different birds prefer shelter at different heights. Provide houses as well as trees, dead and live, and shrubs. Evergreens are great for winter shelter and to hide from predators. An ideal bird habitat would have a variety of plants in size and density. This will provide the birds a choice for feeding, nesting, courting and hiding.
3. Quench Their Thirst-Birds need water whether it is fall, winter, spring or summer so provide a bird bath or fountain for them. If you have a stream running through your yard, provide logs, branches or rocks for the birds to perch on. A reliable source for bathing and drinking is what birds need.
4. Create a Place to Raise Their Young-Birds are always looking for safe places to raise their babies. You can help through nesting boxes as well as shrubs and trees. You may want to hold off trimming your shrubs until after nesting season is over, in case you have residents in your shrubs. You can also provide nesting materials such as short pieces of string and pet/human hair. Not only do these tips help out the birds, but they also provide you with the enjoyment of watching them and keeping them in your backyard all year long.
Click here to view all our wildbird products

Springtime Tips for You and Your Pet

2009-04-07T09:38:00.000-07:00

You will likely be spending more time outside with your pets on these nice warm days, but make sure your yard is safe for your pets.

Make sure your plants are not toxic to animals. Some pets will chew on plants, flowers, mulch and grass. Tulip and daffodil bulb are toxic as well as lilies, elephant ear, arrow grass, azaleas, rhododendrons, marigolds and oleander. Cocoa bean mulch smells like chocolate so dogs will sniff it out and eat it. If you have a dog, do not use this kind of mulch. Also check fertilizers, weed killer and pest control, the label should note if it is toxic to animals. After applying any of these to your yard it is recommended to keep your pet off the yard for 24 hours.

You may be eating with friends and family more too. Chocolate is not good for pets and even a little can be fatal to dogs. Keep cookies, brownies & chocolate away from them and put your Easter candy up out of their reach. Other table foods could also cause health problems, pets should stick to their own pet foods and treats.

You can call the poison control center if you think your pet has been poisoned. 1-800-222-1222 Poisonous plants to dogs. Poisonous plants to cats.

Provide toys for your pets to play with outside. Frisbees and balls will give you and your pet a little extra exercise. This will also keep them occupied and away from your flowers and garden. If you are not going to be outside with them, or they are not on a tie out, put up a fence to keep them away from the road and any pedestrians walking by.

Also with Easter around the corner pets, especially cats, tend to play with the plastic grass that is put in many Easter baskets. Keep your baskets up out of your pets reach or in a cupboard where it is out of sight. If you are hiding Easter eggs, make sure you find them all. Dogs are good at finding eggs and if found after they spoil can make your dog sick.

Before going on a walk check your leash and your pet’s collar and ID tag. Make sure they are in good condition and not too loose.

Your pet may be spending more time outside therefore making them more susceptible to fleas. Stay on top of their flea treatment schedule.

If you are going to be traveling and taking your pet with you, make sure you have the necessities needed for an easy and safe trip. Seat belt harnesses, seat covers and barriers will all be helpful on a long trip.

Have a fun and safe spring and summer with your pets!

Click here to see our cat products.

Planting & Care for Trees, Shrubs & Roses

2009-04-04T18:49:00.000-07:00

Plant Selection
The first step in selecting plants is to identify the area to be planted and addressing its requirements. Things that need to be considered are soil conditions, exposure to sun or shade, wind, and maintenance requirements. Be sure to select plants that are well suited to the area you are landscaping. Next, consider the plants texture, foliage color, flowers, fruit and most importantly, its mature size. A good landscape book can help with ideas and information.

Site Preparation and Planting
The heavy soil conditions in most of the country require special planning for successful plant establishment. Follow the following general planting steps:

Measure the diameter and height of the root ball. Dig the hole
1-2” shallower than the root ball and 11/2 to 2 times its diameter.

Prune Anvil Pruners the root ball after removing from container to prevent
circling or girdling roots.

Set the tree or shrub in the hole on the solid, undisturbed ground. This will prevent the plant from settling to low. Mix the backfill with an enriched garden soil. A saucer of soil should be formed to direct water to the root ball.

Water thoroughly using a liquid plant starter to settle soil and get stimulate root growth.

Mulch with 2-4” of quality bark mulch.

Remove by pruning any dead or damaged branches. Stake trees only if
necessary to prevent damage from high winds.

Watering
Plants should receive about 1” of water per week during the growing season. Remember that too much water can kill plants so do not water if plants receive 1” of rain water during the week. Water plants thoroughly the first season soaking the root ball once a week.

You can find what you need to care for your plants at www.backyardtobarnyard.com